A New Hope Darth Vader Lightsaber - Part 5 - Cutting the case and fitment.
Here comes a cut that makes me pretty nervous. I marked where I want to seperate the Parks MPP Replica, and chucked it in. I used masking tape as not to scratch the top of the shell, even though I realized later that where the chuck jaws met the case would be hidden under the emitter shroud. I have a section of aluminum under the top of the case so my chuck jaws have something to push against instead of crushing or deforming the case top.
After burring about half way into it, so I had a guide groove, I VERY VERY CAREFULLY cut along my groove with the hacksaw to seperate the two halves.
Success! I then chucked the front end up and carefully cleaned off my saw marks, trued it up and faced off the edge, no problem. I removed the grips, slid my aluminum blank down into the back where the threads are, but not all the way as I didn't want to crush the threads in the chuck. I had just enough material to grip about a half inch worth of case and aluminum, and started cleaning it down.
Once I had everything straight, clean, deburred, etc. I tossed the grips back on for a pic. They may be crooked, but I'll reapply them for good at the end of this project.
Everything slides together perfectly. When it's pushed closed, the top of the back half fits about an 1/8 of an inch under the clamp, stabilizing everything. I'll cut my latching groove in the back can soon, and finish out the top where the bladeholder and DIN plug interface section will be, and find some good springs to fit into both sections.
This is about as far back as I'll probably allow the rear section to retract. This is plenty of room for some detail work and the recharge port.
I also found the proper spring for the rear section, not pictured, but it was a one inch by 6 inch spring, out of a mop my wife threw out. Gotta love reuse/repurposing scrap!
Here I polished up the raw faces of the plates into a circular "record groove" pattern.
And after some extensive machining on the battery can cap, so that I can pass wiring through the conduit, and also secure the conduit...
... I started cutting the flexible metal conduit to fit. I also will have brass tubing to pass it through the plates.
Here you see machined paths for the pipe to go pass against the wall of the cap.
And the single pipe gets a curved slot for the top of the tube to bend into.
Cut and fit together, as a test...
I think this is going to look sharp once I get the front two tubes top sections in, some thread covers for the top, and the LEDs, wiring and crystal installed.
I am attempting quite a lot here, saying a few prayers to God almighty while I cut these slots, as I can't really mess these up, or else I'll have to start over on the battery can.
Done milling! Here is the fine hex mesh I got from Az, I think it's going to look great under the slots.
I have a few things to clean up, but overall I think it turned out well. I have left a few spaces for recharge port, aux switch, etc.
The hose along with the LED leads and piping looks pretty good to me, I painted the back half of this LED as a test. Not sure if I want to do it this way or not for the other two.
Have a slight dent on the case I need to mill off, I think that's where I'll put one fo th set screws that attach the cap to the can.
Left to do on this section, set screws and threading a hole for the recharge port.
Couldn't resist taking a shot with the test lighting hooked up.
Nothing in the can but jumper wires, but it still looks pretty good.
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