Really liking how these are looking, but sort of sad they'll be hidden under the tubes.

At this point, I've drilled the hole for the power supply plug, and will move on to more electronics installation.

For this clock, I am using a driver board I've sourced from ebay, which is cheap, reliable, and has both a battery backup, support for the IN-18 tubes, and an infared remote for setting the clock and other functions. It's also very small so I can fit it inside this board.

You'll notice in the pin clearance holes for the tubes, I've placed 3D printed spacers to allow for proper rotation and spacing and alignment of the tubes and sockets. These also act as insulators, and work great!

The IR remote receiver needs to be installed, so I've decided to hide it against the darker wood of this void from the front. It will need wire clearance milled...

Like so, and then the front face drilled for access to the sensor...

Simple! I've centered the hole for the sensor in the right spot on the void, taking advantage of the curves in the void to hide the sensor...

Not too visible! Certainly doesn't stand out at a glance. I think this is a good spot for it.

The large copper plate I'm using as a cover for the electronics both lends weight to the clock to guard against tipping over, serves as a bit of a heat sink, and looks nice once I've sanded and polished it.

I did have to mill out a recess for clearance, and then once I had my holes set for mounting it, I wanted to chamfer them to accept some brass flat-head screws. I couldn't find copper ones.

A few minutes with the chamfer bit on the milling machine and all my mounting holes have enough clearance for the screws.

All four chamfered, love that copper. It will patina over the years, I am sure but it looks great now.

Content with this, I stamp my initials and year...

I've seriously enjoyed building this clock. Thanks for reading!

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