DL-44 Blaster Build
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Uh oh, what have we here? My beautiful wife got me this Broomhandle Mauser Denix replica for Christmas. And I am just now getting to it. It will be on the back burner, but as I get time, I'll pick at it. Much like I did Derelict, in between projects this will get a bit of work done on it.

Also in the picture, a vintage M38A2 scope.

Well, the first thing I can think to do is use my saturday to make the flash hider. I had a scrap piece of solid aluminum bar, and marked off my contour lines to make sure I had enough material, then bored out the end a bit so it would fit against the live center on my tailstock.

I also got to try out my new knurling attachment. Unfortunately, one of the fine knurls fell out of it, so I had to use the coarse ones. Not too bad, but I think my knurling tool leaves a bit to be desired. I may look for a better one later.

But for now, this is fine. Not perfect, but it will work for the ESB style I am going for. Next up, cutting the outside taper to the flash hider. I set my angled tool post to the right degree, then shaved it down.

And then I bored it out on the inside to the same angle. I also cut down my barrel on my denix mauser replica to fit the flash hider. It's pretty snug. I will have to add the setscrew like they had in the movies though, for accuracy and to make sure it doesn't come off.


I didn't know what the rear facing side of the flash hider looked like in the movies, but I added a little step and dip in there for accent. I think it looks just fine.

Flash hider somewhat done, I'll disassemble the rest of the pistol to try and fit the soundcard I harvested out of a hasbro blaster. Stay tuned!

Welp, I got the electronics ironed out, it all works. I also had a spare laser diode that wasn't being very useful sitting in my parts bin, so now it's installed inside the muzzle. The hasbro soundboard powers it just fine, I also have it all running off one 3.7 volt trustfire Li-Ion rechargeable battery. I had to mill out a section inside for the battery to sit in, but it fits just fine. The speaker will go in the handle.. probably. And I need to add the recharge port someplace. Next big challenge, make a fire control group that still maintains the original hammer and trigger.

For the actual trigger switch, I dug around in my parts bin and scrap pile and found this lever tactile switch, forget what I pulled it out of, but it works. PLUS it fits snugly inside the reciever between two pieces of aluminum I already had from something else.

The trick here is to situate the switch in such a location as to (1) Fire the electronics when the trigger is pulled, (2) Allow the hammer to be pulled back and released as well, (3) Allow the electronics to fire when the hammer is released. (4) Fit inside the reciever and still allow my battery and soundcard to fit.

The switch block has to be close enough to the upper trigger hinge to be set off when the hammer is released (or just by pulling the trigger if the hammer is not back) but not so close that the switch is triggered (ha) when the hammer is pulled back due to the sear pushing slightly on the trigger hinge.

After a little filing and milling, it is in the perfect spot to let me pull the trigger and fire it, and it not be activated when I pull the hammer back. When I just pull the trigger, it fires, which is nice, but I can also pull the hammer back and fire it and it CLACKS when the hammer strikes and also fires off the electronics.

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