Here's the custom bolt finished, threaded for 3/8, hollowed for the LED, and cut down so it fits the inner hole of my harddrive platter retainer plate.

This was the result of some very tedious headscratching. The joining of the chassis to the actual adapter plug went through heavy revision until I finally found a way to do it with the space I had left that also let the unit be strong. I decided to take the very heavy risk of drilling and tapping six 2-56 holes through the retainer plate into my plug housing, then using scrap harddrive screws to mount the retainer plate to the plug. I had no room to use the custom LED bolt collector I had machined, so this is how it has to be.

And here I am testing my wiring harness for fit and finish, all the wires fit, and I also took the last four radiator plates, and for three of them drilled a hole that will accept the shock sensor, and the very last one, a hole that fits the wires for the shock sensor. I like having the shock sensor embedded here, as it adds a bit of interest, and gets it away from cramped spaces while also keeping it rigid.
The switch wires run through holes in the radiator as well, the length of the chassis.

Well, tonight I had to solve a lingering problem with my crystal mount.
The LED matrix had a kind of sloppy circular positive lead ring. In addition to being sloppy, it tended to ground out against my support pillars after I added the thicker machined brass trim pieces.

To solve it, I tossed the Mark I LED matrix in favor of the Mark II. A triangular hot lead, with inverted LEDs, passing the hot lead under the mount, against the crystal itself to add stability to the crystal. This also is a tighter, closer in setup, and after noodling with how exactly to do it, I finally just bent and soldered everything with the crystal installed, thereby making sure it all fit. I inverted the LEDs so I could pass the ground Leads up into the mount, grounding against the body of the mount, and hiding them as well.

It's super bright, but I would like to have some more light on the front end... I'll have to work on my top LED holder soon.

I am really digging how the light comes through the radiator fins.

I spent some time on my blade adapter plug, for when the saber has no blade installed.. These pieces are a 1 inch to 3/4 blade diameter reducer, sloped to fit the machined insert, which holds the vintage bulb contact point from the Graflex. It is suspended by the original spring, which sits atop the six Mako V3 LEDs. I connect everything through the Graflex Blade adapter via an 8 pin DIN plug.

And I spent the evening ironing out a few things with wiring, getting ready for the final assembly. Hopefully I will only have to tear it down and rebuild it all a few more times.

And a test lighting of the lit adapter plug. You'll notice the large gaping hole in the bottom of the graflex blade adapter. I hollowed this out to accept the original glass eye, as I was unsatisfied with the glass eye thumbscrews available. Plus it lets me put a section of Anode mesh from a broken nixie tube behind the glass and let the blue light come through.

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